There's nothing like the satisfaction of getting a fresh gel manicure. Less satisfying? Having to wait for your nails to dry and perhaps even smudging the nail polish during the process. Fortunately, a UV lamp helps speed up the dry time while setting your nail polish with a sturdy, long-lasting, glossy finish. It's a large reason gel manicures are one of the most popular nail salon services.
However, the concern is that these lamps responsible for drying your gel polish—including the ones that claim to be LED-only—can potentially cause skin damage and nail damage. To learn more, we spoke with dermatologists Dr. Stacy Chimento and Dr. Kavita Mariwalla who are experts on the matter.
Meet the expert
- Dr. Stacy Chimento is a board-certified Miami-based dermatologist at Riverchase Dermatology.
- Dr. Kavita Mariwalla is a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist.
Keep scrolling to discover the effects of UV light on the skin and nails, plus, how to protect yourself the next time you head to the salon.
The Dangers of UV Lamps
"The light boxes at nail salons used to set nail polish emit UVA light, which is associated with causing damage to your skin," explains Dr. Chimento.
More specifically, Dr. Chimento explains that "UVA radiation can lead to premature wrinkles, age spots, and in extreme cases, skin cancer." She also adds that the problem with the LED lamps (which you may have seen marketed as "better for you") is that they can radiate light that's on the UVA spectrum, which still poses risks of photo-aging.
UV Lamps and Skin Cancer
It may not be the equivalent of sitting out in the sun unprotected, however, it's still important to exercise some caution when exposing yourself to a UV lamp, says Dr. Mariwalla.
"Although a weekly or twice-a-month gel manicure in and of itself likely won't cause skin cancer, if you are a regular and have been doing it for years and years then I think you may notice more freckling on your hands," she notes. "It is certainly not the same as going in a tanning bed, however."
How UV Lamps Affect Skin and Nails
While gel nails may last much longer and be more durable than traditional polish, both Dr. Chimento and Dr. Mariwalla are wary about the process. "I think gel manicures and artificial nails in general are not very healthy for your natural nails," says Dr. Mariwalla. "To the extent that those practices then cause you to put your hands under the lights, it becomes a bit of a not-so-healthy-all-the-time kind of habit."
Skin Aging
According to Dr. Mariwalla, getting gel manicures regularly can result in the skin on your hands aging faster and losing its elasticity more quickly than it normally would.
Dry Skin
Dr. Chimento points out that the acetone that is typically used in manicures can also cause your skin to dry out, making it all the more sensitive to UV rays. "If you take certain medications like doxycycline, you can increase your chances of burning your skin and separating the nail from the bed when combined with light," says Dr. Chimento.
Nail Damage
Fortunately, the lamp itself won't cause harm to your nails—but the polish might. When drying your manicure with a UV lamp, your nails are protected thanks to the thick coat of gel polish, Dr. Mariwalla tells us. "So in that sense, I don't think those lamps damage the nails per se," she says. "But the actual gel and the acrylics certainly lead to thinning nail plates and can lead to nail infections and nail lifting if water gets underneath."
VIDEO: Here's How to Remove Gel Polish at Home
How to Limit UV Light Exposure
While Dr. Chimento notes that applying an SPF 30 sunscreen at least 20 minutes before placing your hands under the lamp would be effective, UV gloves would be a good alternative if you wanted to forgo slathering up before your mani.
"I think UV gloves with fingertip cutouts are great as is using sunscreen," says Dr. Mariwalla. "Using protection on your hands will prevent damage from happening to your skin."
The Bottom Line
Just remember that at the end of the day, you're still exposing your hands to UV rays repeatedly when you go in for gel manicures. So go ahead and think about either SPF, gloves, or limiting your gel manis to special occasions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is LED or UV lamp better for gel nails?
One isn't necessarily better for gel nails than the other. Both LED lamps and UV lamps emit UVA rays, which can lead to premature signs of aging. However, keep in mind that UV lamps will dry all types of gel polish while LED lamps are limited to drying only specific LED light gel polishes.
Do you have to use a UV lamp after getting a gel manicure?
Yes. The UV rays help the gel polish polymerize, or harden, which is what makes the formula so durable, and dry so quickly.
Do regular manicures require drying by UV lamp?
It's not recommended to use a UV lamp to dry regular polish. Instead, a non-gel manicure can be dried by using a heat lamp with a small fan.