THE CANNY COOK: Italian-style fiery eggs (2025)

We eat eggs at Easter because they symbolise new life and while I’ll mainly be scoffing the chocolate variety, the long weekend is also the perfect time to make some egg-based lazy brunches. In the past few years we’ve been swept up in shakshuka fever (shakshuka is the fantastic Middle Eastern dish of baked eggs in a spice- rich pepper and tomato stew). If you’re after something a bit simpler to cook, I suggest Italian-style baked eggs.

The dish hails from southern Italy and is sometimes known as eggs in purgatory because of its fiery chilli-spiked tomato sauce. (I love how creative the Italians can be with naming dishes – arrabbiata translates as ‘angry pasta’!) Requiring just a few ingredients to make, it is often garnished with basil leaves and freshly grated parmesan. And, like any baked-egg dish, it needs crusty bread to mop up the sauce.

In terms of eggs, try to avoid those from barn or caged hens and choose free range, as the birds have continuous access to outdoor space. Organic eggs are free range from hens fed on an organic diet. I’m enjoying the ones by St Ewe (from Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Ocado and Morrisons), a family-run business in Cornwall. They are excellent value and the range includes a ‘rich yolk’ egg, which would be perfect in this recipe.

METHOD

Heat 2 tbsp olive oil (extra virgin if you have it) over a medium-high heat in a large frying pan. Crush or finely grate the garlic cloves, add to the pan with a pinch of salt and fry for a minute, until fragrant.

Stir in a good pinch of chilli flakes and pour in the tinned tomatoes. Add a little more salt and leave to simmer gently for about 8-10 minutes or until the sauce has thickened. Taste and add more salt, chilli or a little sugar, if needed.

Turn the heat to medium. Use the back of a spoon to make 4 indents in the sauce, and crack an egg into each. Cook for 5-6 minutes or until the whites are cooked and yolks are set but still soft. You can use a fork to gently stir the uncooked whites into the sauce so they cook more quickly. Briefly cover the pan with a lid at the end of the cooking if the tops of the yolks need to firm up a little.

Garnish with basil leaves and freshly grated parmesan, if you like. Serve with crusty bread.

Do you have a great recipe for eating well and cutting food bills? Email editor@you.co.uk. If we print it here, we’ll send you a bottle of champagne

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